South Africa and Botswana
April - May 2016
After completing all of the coursework relevant to HIV/AIDS and other infectious diseases in Southern Africa during the course of the semester, our class was able to travel to South Africa and Botswana to get a more hands-on experiential learning opportunity. Spending nearly two weeks in the two countries, we had the chance to visit clinics, hospitals, health science universities, governmental ministries, museums, and important historical and cultural landmarks. More than anything, our trip gave new perspective to all that we learned in class, and opened our eyes to the realities of public health in Southern Africa unlike any lecture, project, or presentation ever could. Of all my study abroad trips thus far in my college career, I would venture to say that my time in South Africa and Botswana was the most impactful. Not only did the activities that we engaged in abroad directly play to my career interests, but the trip itself captivated and fascinated me. It was wonderful to become closer to fellow students on the trip, to meet so many wonderful South Africans and Batswana, and to explore a part of the world that was entirely new to me. I am glad to have had the chance to learn more about my future career interests, and to have gained practical experience in global health at such an early point in my development. Truly, this trip to Southern Africa was the perfect way to finish my second year at UC, to bring full circle all that I have learned inside and outside of the classroom thus far, and to prepare me for the next steps in my academic career.
April 26 - 27: We're Off!
Today was our first day (or more aptly, night) in South Africa. The plane ride was a grueling endeavor of 15 hours, and was definitely one that I am not looking forward to on the way back. The flight was good, though, in that it was great to meet other students and people travelling to South Africa. The girl sitting next to Rohan and I on the plane was from Brigham Young University and was travelling to South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, and Mozambique. We had some good conversations about what we were expecting from our respective trips, and what we were planning on doing. Her class was going to be focused on business development since she was a marketing major, and it was interesting to hear about different reasons why students might be traveling to Southern Africa. It was great to have a conversation, though, as it further built up my excitement for visiting South Africa. We also talked with another young South African who was sitting in the seat in front of us. He had actually been on holiday in the US to visit with his girlfriend in Scottsdale, AZ. His overall vibe was very relaxed and open, and I think that it was really good to get the perspective of a young person before entering into the country. He was very intent on us enjoying our experiences and gave us advice on how to stay safe while making the most of our trip. He also said that he was very jealous of the kind of experiential learning opportunity that we were taking advantage of, as universities in South Africa did not encourage the same type of practice. More personally, the conversations that we had with this South African gave me the impression that he was free-spirited in much the same way as some of the people that I met in Guatemala last winter. Exploring, travelling the world, living life to the fullest, he was definitely a good person to talk with on the long journey.
After we arrived in Johannesburg, we exchanged our money and met Henry, who will be our tour guide in S. Africa and who was already full of interesting commentary on things like the upcoming municipal elections. We then left the airport and drove to our home base in South Africa: the Brooklyn Guest House in Pretoria. Overall, then, today has been a largely uneventful -- though still interesting -- few hours. After a very long flight, we finally made it to South Africa, and I could not be more excited to get started with all of the cool experiences that we will have on this trip. It was great to meet a few South Africans already, and I hope to meet many more and learn so much in the next few days.
After we arrived in Johannesburg, we exchanged our money and met Henry, who will be our tour guide in S. Africa and who was already full of interesting commentary on things like the upcoming municipal elections. We then left the airport and drove to our home base in South Africa: the Brooklyn Guest House in Pretoria. Overall, then, today has been a largely uneventful -- though still interesting -- few hours. After a very long flight, we finally made it to South Africa, and I could not be more excited to get started with all of the cool experiences that we will have on this trip. It was great to meet a few South Africans already, and I hope to meet many more and learn so much in the next few days.
April 28: The Topsy Foundation
Today was our first full day in South Africa, and it was a really terrific one. The first thing that we did today was visit a South African gas station, where I spent my first few rand on some lunch for later. It was a really interesting experience, and I was able to buy a "steer" burger as well as consider the possibility of indulging in some ostrich jerky. Anna also bought some corn milk, which was banana-flavored and actually quite good. More than anything, thought, the experience was really interesting and gave me a sense of the similarities and differences between life in South Africa and the US. In many respects, the gas station was very similar to one that I might find here at home. There was a fast food place and a lot of snack food to buy, for example. In other ways, though, the experience was very different. Gas costs a lot more in South Africa because of how heavily the US government subsidizes gas, and the types of snacks to be purchased were obviously very different as well.
The next stop for today was at the Topsy Clinic, which has recently changed its name to the Topsy Foundation alongside a change in focus and scope. This establishment is a former HIV/AIDS clinic which has recently has to refocus its mission in response to reduced funding. The visit to the clinic was my first experience with what a South African AIDS treatment center might look like, and the tour that we were given by Director Elizabeth Moshe of the facilities definitely lent itself to an |
understanding of what the clinic might have looked like when it was still operational. The bigger takeaways, though, have definitely been how admirable and innovative the clinic's recent refocus has been, and how well-connected the current healthcare reality in S. Africa is to the material that we have covered in class this semester. From our discussion at the Atlanta airport en route to South Africa, for example, we focused on the PEPFAR funding program that the United States has provided for South African HIV/AIDS Treatment programming. It is in large part because of the program that success in South Africa in combating HIV/AIDS has been seen. At the very least, the program's contributions have been significant. This makes it all the more trying that the program's funding has recently been cut. For Topsy, this has meant that a former private, highly efficient, ARV-doling clinic is no longer well-funded enough to combat HIV/AIDS through direct treatment. What is admirable, though, is that this has not forced the clinic to close. Instead, Topsy has reinvented itself with a new mission to combat the disease in a novel way. Identifying a vulnerable group that has arisen because of HIV in young orphaned children whose parents have died due to HIV/AIDS, Topsy has made these youngsters their target population. Now, the new foundation provides kindergarten and daycare services for such children, with specific attention paid to furthering their visuospatial and logic-based skills. This, they hope, will not only alleviate the burden of care for community members and give children a chance to enjoy themselves, but also hasten the building of foundation-level skills which lead to improved academic performance in the long term.
As part of our visit to Topsy, we also had the chance to visit local community centers for childcare which are frequently serviced by Topsy. This was a really interesting experience, in that it provided me with my first chance to see some of the informal settlements that Rohan had talked about in class. To be fair, the small settlements that we saw weren't nearly as packed together as I imagine some communities are, but the classic house structure and grouping were definitely present. It is worth noting, though, that the differences between informal settlements and other similar outcrops of houses that were apparently more permanent and well-to-do were not that easily identified. Indeed, though we visited two distinct communities and their daycares on our visit, it was hard to tell which one was wealthier. This has led me to the belief that the split South Africa of rich and poor is not as clear cut as I might have imagined it. There are definitely immense differences between what is wealthy and what is not -- as well as disparities between white and black South Africans on average -- but also a great deal more nuance in distinctions between lower middle class and working class than I had anticipated.
As part of our visit to Topsy, we also had the chance to visit local community centers for childcare which are frequently serviced by Topsy. This was a really interesting experience, in that it provided me with my first chance to see some of the informal settlements that Rohan had talked about in class. To be fair, the small settlements that we saw weren't nearly as packed together as I imagine some communities are, but the classic house structure and grouping were definitely present. It is worth noting, though, that the differences between informal settlements and other similar outcrops of houses that were apparently more permanent and well-to-do were not that easily identified. Indeed, though we visited two distinct communities and their daycares on our visit, it was hard to tell which one was wealthier. This has led me to the belief that the split South Africa of rich and poor is not as clear cut as I might have imagined it. There are definitely immense differences between what is wealthy and what is not -- as well as disparities between white and black South Africans on average -- but also a great deal more nuance in distinctions between lower middle class and working class than I had anticipated.
April 29: Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University
April 30: Pretoria
Our day today was spent walking around Pretoria and also at some nearby museums here in the city. It was actually my favorite day so far on the trip because I was able to see so much of South Africa's history, life in the modern day, and natural beauty. We started the day off by the Union Buildings, where the South African legislature meets. The building was magnificent, and had a beautiful garden with an enormous statue of Nelson Mandela to compliment it. To think that only 25 years ago Mandela was still imprisoned and South Africa was locked in a bitter struggle for the abolition of apartheid and the establishment of equity between all people is unreal. Now, this leader for hope and change stands as a guardian above the representative government that he helped fashion.
After the Union Buildings, we walked down to Church Square, where we spent some time shopping at different stores and grabbing a bite to eat. We also had the chance to tour the courthouse where the Rivonia Trial took place, and to visit the cell that the beloved "Madiba" stayed in during the course of these trials. It was not only a great historical lesson to learn, but also a truly moving experience to go through the tour. When we got down to Mandela's cell, his initial writing on the wall was joined by that of hundreds more, writing in support of his struggle towards equality. To see so many voices rally around one was inspiring, and gives me hope for the future impact that I can make moving forward. I was definitely very moved to think, also, that Mandela has gone to prison for so long in an effort to free his country. That level of sacrifice -- though definitely more nuanced because of the reason that he went to prison -- speaks to the kind of dedication needed to see results through to the end. Our next stops in Pretoria were at two different museums. The first, called Freedom Park, was an absolutely fantastic experience. For one thing, the museum/park was located high above the city, and gave the most amazing view of Pretoria from its summit. Truly, the top of the museum felt almost like a small paradise with its shallow pool, luscious hill, and wonderful view. Perhaps even more importantly, the museum that was inside the park was a testament to the struggle of fighting against apartheid. In this way, it serves as a constant, overlooking reminder to the city of its ugly past, and of the need for equity and respect moving forward. The names of fallen heroes and martyrs like Steve Biko were accompanied by a small exhibition with real artifacts. Most impactful for me, though, was an image with protesters holding a sign that said "They will never kill us all." This was something that shook me deeply, and fully conveyed to me the extent of the pain and suffering that was felt by the black Africans of South African under apartheid. The bravery, strength, and belief that it takes to stand strong in the face of oppression is indescribable, and something to truly be admired, remembered, and praised. The last stop on our journey today was at the Voertrekker Monument, dedicated to the Boer people and their losses and migration during the Anglo-Boer wars. The monument is contentious, because although it represents an important part of South African history, it's very much representative of the old, apartheid South Africa, and not inclusive of the many black African lives lost in this South African civil war. |